News - 1 Best Controller Settings Warzone For Aim And Movement (used By Pro Players)
But I got you with these controller settings, man. With these controller settings, your aim will be insane, you'll feel like you have an aimbot, and your movement will just be so good you don't even need a SCUf. Controller, man, scuffs are for losers. I don't use a scuf, and I play like I have one, so yeah, I'm going to be putting you on right now, so yeah, if the article does help, leave a like, and yeah, let's get into it.
Starting off with the aiming input device, of course we want a controller, because this is a controller settings article, and in button layout, we want a bumper jumper tactical. Now, I've always said this in my articles. Basically, this is going to make it so you can jump, slide, and do all your movement that you need without having to take your right thumb off your right This basically means you cannot complain about movement ever again; you have the best possible controls.
So easy to do movement L1 to jump and R3 to slide. Now this seems a little weird. You're going to have to get used to it. It'll take about a week, and after a week, you'll be so much better if you play tactical. It's the same thing as tactical; just switch your X and your L1. I'm telling you right now that this is one of the best changes you can make.
If you haven't made it already, change this control out right now, and you'll be so much better. Next is bumper ping and flip. These things I keep off, but you can flip them if you want to. This is on top because people like to shoot with R1; it would be a lot better. Test out presets; don't change this one; this one's weird; don't even do that to control vibration.
Make sure this is off. You don't want this to be on ever, because if this is on, it's going to ruin your aim when you're shooting and stuff, and of course you want it to be off dead zone inputs. Now, I would recommend testing it and moving your right sticks around like this and your left stick and stuff like that, and then letting go of it and seeing if it's automatically moving.
If it's like a little shifting like this, you see how it's shifting a little bit. You want to check. If it's shifting, if I put mine all the way on zero, move my left stick. You can see how it's shifting a little bit. You don't want that, so that's why you want to keep it at a point where you can and it doesn't shift it.
For me, that's three and five. The left stick is normally going to be a little lower than the right stick, and you want to make sure the max is not 99. You want to make sure it's 90 or something, because you don't have to push your red stick and left stick all the way for it to trigger the maximum effect.
Trust me, that's how you're going to want to do this one for the left trigger and right trigger. You want to keep them both at zero. The reason is because that means you can barely press it to quickly register your shooting. People used to complain about how R2 and L2 are pretty bad because you could use R1 and L1 and it would be better because it would be faster, but now you can cause it to trigger without as much input, and it's a lot better if you put it on zero.
All right, let's get to the aiming settings for sensitivity. I use 1513, and I don't use any advanced BS. I would not even recommend the advanced BS. It's kind of weird; don't do that one. Sensitivity is something I say that depends on person to person, so I wouldn't tell you to use 1513, but I would say 1513.
If you're a movement player, you want higher sensitivity, and that's why I use 15–13 for movement players. If you'd like to stay a little back and play a little slower, I would go down around eight. I don't i always feel like six, and stuff is very low. I don't use those low sensitivities. I use it around here because I go very fast.
I play the game very fast. I don't play slow. But yeah, that's what it is for me. So if you have a play style like mine, use the sensitiv. This one's locked, so we'll get to this one later because I have the custom sensitivity multiplier. These ones keep these defaults, which don't matter vertically.
AIS also doesn't matter tax stance multiplier; I have the 0.9. Because basically, you're kind of aiming in, so you want it to be a little slower, but you know it's kind of like an aiming hit. I keep it a little lower so you can have a little bit better aim with it, but the attack stand sucks. I wouldn't even use it that often; a response curve type is dynamic, and I keep the slope on one so it's at its maximum strength.
Yeah, this setting basically gives your AIST more power. You know, I mean, next is the ADS sensitivity multiplier. Focus this one I'd keep on one; don't really change it because you know it doesn't really make a difference and you're not really got to focus that often ads sensitivity transition timing.
Keep this on immediately; this is very important. If you have this on gradual or anything, your sensitivity will change gradually, and you don't want that; you want it to be instant. Sensitivity per zoom: Now I keep this on, and then I have it on these. I would actually copy these ones. I think these ones are, like, one of the best ones you can have, but if you don't like it, you can edit it a little bit, but this is how I have it from low to high.
Target an assist, of course. This is, simply put, an assist type on default. This is the best one out of all of them. Default is going to give you the most assistance possible and the best quality assistance possible, so that's why I just keep the default third-person ad correction type on assist.
I mean, honestly, I don't play third person, so this is not really accurate, but don't you think no one plays third person? Man, don't even worry about the setting; now this is all the motion. This is for motion sensing and behavior, and all this—don't have this on. This is all the gyro stuff.
I mean, don't play; don't do this, man; don't do this. I'm going to be aiming you through red sticks, and not your motion ever comes on, starting with the gameplay settings. Automatic sprint: we want automatic tactical sprint so that we automatically start tactical sprinting every time we move around.
This is amazing for movement; without it, your movement is going to be a lot worse. You don't want that for slide maintenance sprints. You want this to be off, the reason being that when you slide and you stop your slide, you're automatically going to start sprinting, and you won't actually go in the Crouch position.
If you want to actually sprint after a slide, you just slide cancel, and I get up. I feel like you have more control over your slide if you have it off, but if you don't like it, you can. If you don't like having to always get up after you're sliding, you can turn this on auto-move forward. Of course, you don't want this to be on forever.
